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I live in Montreal, Quebec, and my first language is French.

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Wednesday, March 10, 2010

The return of CSA?

In 2007, while I was on mat leave with a baby who was just starting to eat, we tried the community-supported agriculture formula, in which we paid over $400 to have fresh, local, organic vegetables delivered to us during the summer and into the fall. I was really enthusiastic about the idea, and well, it turned out to be a disaster. I don’t think I ended up making a single puree for LP from the offer, which was terrible for many reasons, but mostly because the (still nice and well-intentioned) farmers didn’t know what they were doing, at all. On top of the upfront price, we still needed to buy nearly all our produce during the 18 weeks (when it was supposed to be 23, thus hiking the price of the weekly basket) we had vegetables, not to mention that since I was counting on them, I didn’t grow anything that year, so we didn’t even have our own delicious heirloom tomatoes and such (only4 huge green tomatoes at the end of September).

I was bitterly disappointed, M was mostly furious, and thus since then we’ve been relying on the produce market we have nearby, which does not do organic, but at least has a fresher and more local-oriented offer than the supermarket (it’s only open from April to October).

But I was sad, because I still believed in the concept, and thought that when well done, it was probably fantastic! I know it’s not always possible to do things this way, but it’s just a perfectly sensible and integrated circle: you encourage a local producer, the soil is not depleted, the carbon footprint is reasonable, the produce is free from pesticides and super fresh, and you somewhat follow what is intended in nature by mostly eating what is in season. A win-win for everyone. Recently reading Michael Pollan only increased our wanting to turn towards food that is "codebar free."

So through my annoying tireless evangelization, I have managed to convince some people, including a few co-workers who tagged along last year when we purchased pork meat from a local farm. The students may have now surpassed the teacher, because one of them recently looked at CSA, and found this great local farm that suddenly makes it very tempting again. They are very different than the one from three years ago, and seem to have it completely together. Their offer is year-round, they have some fruit too (partially through partnerships with other local farms), all kinds of heirloom varieties, lots of unusual fresh herbs, and even a greenhouse that makes it possible for them to grow certain vegetables year-round. In the winter, they import some fruit and add them to their baskets, based upon the principle that here it is impossible to only eat local, and that during the dark months, no one can or should survive on root vegetables alone. And to top it off, they also add a little something extra in each basket: chutney, jam, jar of soup, etc. Through them, you can even order (for extra $) other organic foods such as bread, eggs, poultry, etc., which they will deliver as the same time as your produce basket (convenient!)

It’s $1,350 annually, even for the smaller basket. Which is steep. Especially since I already think our grocery bills are insane, as we put a lot of effort into eating healthfully, more naturally, and if possible organically. But when you split it over 52 weeks, it’s $25, which they claim is less expensive than if you buy the same conventional produce at the supermarket. So I told myself the same thing I do when I grab the $6 free-range organic eggs carton, while gasping at the fact that it cost nearly three times as much as the regular eggs (laid by hens which probably receive the worst treatment of ALL animals in the industrial food chain by the way, even while these standards are admittedly incredibly low). Pollan says the only power we have as consumers is to "vote with our forks". That’s the only way it will become increasingly available, and thus possibly less expensive. So I feel I should be consequent and let my actions match my big mouth.

11 comment(s):

Guillaume Bourassa said...

Actually, what frightens me the most about going on the train of CSA is not being able to deal with the mindset shift it implies. Because let's be honest about that, it changes radically the way we must see meals preparation, since ingredients are now pushed to us. That means no more "What are we gonna eat tonight?", but instead a lot of "What the hell am I gonna do tonight with that particular set of vegetables?".
I'm actually afraid of ending up losing a lot of food, for not being able to cook it fast enough (one basket of vegetable a week is a lot). And in the end, all the benefits of eating local and organic (at least from the environmental point of view) is lost if you throw half of your food in the garbage bin.

Marie-Ève said...

Yeah, you're right. I think it requires a lot of effort and some adjustment... That's the main argument M and I have: he says it's not a perfect solution because it takes away the *choice* aspect. And I can't really disagree...

Guillaume Bourassa said...

This *choice* aspect is the main thing that led us to industrialized and abondant non-local food. We have to sacrifice a little bit of this if we want to eat in a eco-friendly way.

Krista said...

Wow. I'll be the first to admit that I would not pay that much money for locally grown vegetables. Sure, I've purchased from a coworker who's a part-time farmer and sells organic veggie baskets. But I don't know about THAT MUCH money up front.

It's not the loss of choice: I kinda like the idea of a surprise AND being forced to try new things. It's just that for two of us, as Guillaume Bourassa points out, a lot of the food might get thrown out if we don't eat it.

To pay that much money and throw out food would be hard to stomach!

Kim said...

I kind of like the idea of basing my weekly menus on whatever I get in my basket. But the price has been prohibiting me from signing up, too. I want to vote with my fork... but my frugal side wants me to go with the cheapest option. Right now I'm doing about 50/50 organic and non. Maybe when I'm old and rich I'll buy 100% organic. Or maybe we can just convince more people to buy into this idea and prices will go down!

Lucie said...

I've taken part in CSA for 5 summers and 3 winters, with 2 different farms (changed when I moved). Overall I enjoyed the experience, although I would probably have hated it as much as you did in 2007 if I had been with such a bad farm.

True, this system leaves you less choice. In this regard, it is especially important to find a farm producing veggies one like, in adequate amounts. I loved the farm I was with almost year-long for 4 years, but with winter veggies they never gave enough onions and garlic, which are staples in my kitchen. For other veggies, it changed from a year to the other, depending on weather for example. One summer, I lost tomatoes because there were so many each week and I couldn't keep up, not having time to freeze or can those I couldn't use right now. Other years, I barely had enough for a tomato sandwich per week... Of course, this is also part of the deal: sharing the risk with the farmer.

I did discover several vegetables I had never eaten before (like fennel and celeriac), some of them I really enjoyed. I also discovered new ways of cooking some veggies I used not to like. That's the good aspect of having no choice. However, especially in the first year with each farm, some weeks I was overwhelmed by too many veggies I didn't know or didn't enjoy. After a few years though, I was more familiar with about anything in my basket and I knew right away how to use each veggie (and which ones to trade because I really disliked them, whatever I tried). I have friends who had similar experiences: when a farm is a good match, CSA gets better with the years.

For me, arrangements for basket delivery was also very important. In my last summer in Quebec City, and my 1st summer of CAS, the farm I had signed with delivered baskets on Thursdays, from 4 to 6, and very close to where I lived. I could manage my schedule to get there around 4:30, leaving me time to think a little about what I'd cook that night (using the veggies that don't keep long), shop for whatever I needed for that meal that wasn't in the basket, cook and eat dinner at a reasonable time (6:30-7 at most). Plus, that summer I was home most weekends, so on Friday Night and during the weekend I'd cook my organic veggies, and I didn't lose much.

My other farm, when I lived in Montreal, also delivered on Thursdays, but from 5:30 to 7:30 PM. Plus, it wasn't that close to where I lived (couldn't find closer). So, I could never be home with the produce before 6, and my choices were to either eat late or plan my meal not knowing what I'd get and lose the veggies that didn't keep. Plus, I often wasn't home on weekends then, so I lost more veggies. On this point, I preferred winter baskets, because root veggies can wait a few more days in your fridge without problem... There are other solutions too. I know that some farms post on their web site the contents of the current week's basket. I would have enjoyed that: could have planned my dinner before picking the veggies.

I stopped CSA because it became too complicated to pick up the baskets with a stop to daycare added to my routine, and to eat at a decent time which became more important with a child. I'm still hoping to find a perfect farm some day...

Marie-Ève said...

Wow, merci chère cousine, c'est sans doute le commentaire le plus complet et pertinent que je n'ai jamais eu... And your English is really good! :-)

Lucie said...

Merci! venant de toi (j'apprends régulièrement du vocabulaire en te lisant), c'est tout un compliment!

Oz said...

We are talking about doing a CSA for the first time this year. I have to confess that my husband is more passionate about it than me. I'd rather pick things out from the local folks at the farmer's market - figuring out what to do with everything we'd get from a CSA, while wrangling the two little ones alone most evenings, seems overwhelming. And, alas, the logistics of the pick up are complex.

The new option you have does sound lovely, but I have to confess to sticker shock!

Marie-Ève said...

Update: we decided not to do it after all, not like this, anyway. Unfortunately, even though I still think it's rationally justified, it just seems too expensive up front.

Maude said...

Connais-tu Les jardins urbains? C'est une ferme de produits bio où tu peux faire presque toute ton épicerie en ligne et la livraison est gratuite.

www.lesjardinsurbains.ca/